{"product_id":"96-04-mercedes-slk-230-320-r170-convertible-top-hydraulic-cylinder-o-ring-seals","title":"96-04 Mercedes SLK 230 320 R170 Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinder O-ring Seals","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003eMercedes R170 SLK-Class\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e(SLK230, SLK320, etc., 1996–2004) uses a\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003ehydraulic system\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003ewith\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003efive cylinders\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eto operate the retractable hardtop:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eFront lock cylinder\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e(center, near windshield header): Often part A1708000072 or similar (170800072 \/ 170800072)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eLeft main lift cylinder\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e(driver side, trunk area): Commonly A1708000572 (170800572)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eRight main lift cylinder\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e(passenger side, trunk area): Commonly A1708000672 (170800672)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eLeft trunk\/tonneau lid cylinder\u003c\/b\u003e: Often A1708000272 or similar (170800272)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eRight trunk\/tonneau lid cylinder\u003c\/b\u003e: Often A1708000372 or similar (170800372)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p2\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003ehese are the OEM cylinder part numbers. Leaks usually come from the rod seal (U-cup or similar) at the gland end, plus O-rings at ports\/fittings and sometimes piston seals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eReplacing the\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003eO-rings\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e(and full seals) is a common\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003eDIY rebuild\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eto fix external leaks without buying new cylinders (which cost $200–$500+ each rebuilt). Many owners use our O-ring kits that replace the rod seal with an O-ring + backup, plus port O-rings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p3\"\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p4\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eWarnings Before Starting\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eUse\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cb\u003eMercedes\/Pentosin CHF 11S\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003ehydraulic fluid (or exact equivalent)—do NOT use ATF or brake fluid.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eSupport the hardtop and tonneau mechanically (props, straps) to prevent crushing injury or damage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eWork clean: Dirt kills seals fast.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eIf piston rods are scored\/pitted or bores corroded, seals won't last—consider professional rebuild (e.g., Top Hydraulics) or replacement.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eBleeding air after is critical; incomplete bleed causes erratic operation.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p4\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eTools Needed\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eBasic hand tools (sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, 8–10mm wrenches)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003ePick set or small hook tool (for old seals)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eClean rags, drain pan\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eHydraulic fluid, turkey baster\/syringe for filling\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eOptional: Cylinder vise\/holder, snap-ring pliers if applicable\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p4\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eGeneral Steps for O-Ring\/Seal Replacement on R170 Cylinders\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eThe process is similar across cylinders, but main lifts and trunk ones are trickier to remove. Our kit use O-rings to replace the U-cup rod seal that commonly fail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col class=\"ol1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003ePreparation\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003ePark level, battery disconnected.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eManually position\/open the top as far as possible for access (use emergency release cables if needed; trunk lid may need propping).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eDrain reservoir if low (under trunk panel).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eRemove the Cylinder\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eRemove trunk panels, carpet, or side trim to access (main lifts are in rear trunk wells; front lock under header; tonneau near hinges).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eDisconnect hydraulic lines (catch fluid; label hoses—most use banjo bolts or quick-connects with O-rings).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eRemove mounting pins\/clips (clevis pins with circlips or roll pins—tap out carefully).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eExtract cylinder (main lifts may require tilting top or removing links; tonneau ones near exhaust\/muffler).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eDisassemble and Replace Seals\/O-Rings\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eClean exterior.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eExtend rod fully, drain fluid.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eRemove gland\/nut or retaining clip at rod end (some are threaded, others snap-ring or pressed plug).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eFor many R170 kits: Drill small access holes if needed (some cylinders have a pressed plug—drill carefully to extract old seal without damaging bore).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eUse pick\/hook to remove old rod seal (U-cup), backup ring, O-rings on gland.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eClean bore\/rod thoroughly (no scratches!).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eInstall new seals from kit:\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eReassemble gland\/cap securely.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eReinstall\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eReverse removal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eReconnect lines (torque banjos gently; check for cross-threading).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eRefit pins\/clips (may need gentle persuasion on main lifts).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eBleed and Test\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eRefill reservoir (under rear seat\/trunk area).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eCycle top multiple times (engine running helps pump pressure).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eBleed air: Operate fully up\/down 10–20 times; top off fluid.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eCheck for leaks at ports\/seals.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eTest in warm\/cold conditions.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p4\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eKey Resources\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eTop Hydraulics DIY Videos\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e(highly recommended—detailed, step-by-step for R170):\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cul class=\"ul1\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\"Mercedes R170 SLK - How To Replace The Convertible Top Hydraulic System\" series (multiple chapters on YouTube, covering all cylinders).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003eSpecific main lift removal: Search \"R170 main lift cylinders Top Hydraulics\".\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003ePelican Parts Tech Article\u003c\/b\u003e: \"Mercedes-Benz SLK 230 Vario Roof Hydraulic Cylinder ID and Replacement\" — Great for cylinder locations and basic removal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003ePDF Guide\u003c\/b\u003e: Download \"R170 SLK-Class Cylinder Removal\" from tophydraulics.com (free, detailed photos\/steps).\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"li1\"\u003e\n\u003cb\u003eForums\u003c\/b\u003e: SLKWorld.com and Benzworld.org — Search \"R170 hydraulic rebuild\" or \"SLK cylinder O-ring kit\" for user photos\/tips.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"The Frugal Fixer","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":53189479137645,"sku":null,"price":13.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0992\/3362\/8525\/files\/Screenshot2026-04-08at6.53.03PM.png?v=1775699764","url":"https:\/\/thefrugalfixer.com\/products\/96-04-mercedes-slk-230-320-r170-convertible-top-hydraulic-cylinder-o-ring-seals","provider":"The Frugal Fixer","version":"1.0","type":"link"}